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H.E.R.B.S Installation by Studio Nienke Hoogvliet

Studio Nienke Hoogvliet is based in the Dutch seaside city of The Hague. Founded by Nienke Hoogvliet in 2013 the studio is a space for redesigning responsible textiles, products and design concepts with consideration to nature and society.


H.E.R.B.S Installation an acronym for Healthier Environment, Remedy for Body and Skin was a project established with the aim of raising awareness around textile dyeing substances and their influence on our state of health. Following a literature study exploring the influence of synthetically dyed garments and how these chemicals interact with the wearer, Nienke Hoogvliet began researching if herbs applied in the dyeing process could provide the wearer with medicinal benefits. 


Commencing the research project Nienke dyed natural fabric samples with sage, chamomile and rosemary. The samples were then studied by Belgian textile research centre Centexbel. The samples revealing the presence of essential oils that had been imparted during the natural herb dye process. 

The interactive dye installation H.E.R.B.S, an outcome of the research project was introduced during the 2019 Dutch Design Week, allowing participants to select a pre-loved discarded white t-shirt that had been collected by Gebotex a textile sorting company in the Netherlands. Madder, turmeric and indigo were chosen as the natural dye matter, with possible health benefits including anti-inflammatory, improved immune system properties as well as reduced skin conditions like eczema.

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The creation of an interactive experience that involves the end-user of the naturally dyed garment hoped to increase awareness and reshape individuals frame of reference associated with colours in the clothes they wear against their skin.

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WHY SHOULD YOU CARE?

H.E.R.B.S Installation is about the link between clothing and health. As we breathe, sweat and live with textiles against our skin, the body’s largest organ, it is just as important to know the ‘ingredients’ of dyes in our clothes as it is in the food we put in our body. 


GLOBAL GOALS ADDRESSED

Goal 3 - Good Health and Wellbeing
The H.E.R.B.S Installation aims to increase consumer awareness around textile colouration and the health impacts of chemical synthetic dyes on the end user, as well as implications on the people and environment along the supply chain. The use of herbs in the dyeing process was to analyse if clothing can bring the wearer additional health benefits.

Goal 12 – Responsible Production and Consumption 
Utilising textiles ‘waste’ through a partnership with Gebotex textile collector and sorter, 1200 white t-shirts were reused for the installation project. The t-shirts were still in a satisfactory, wearable state despite being discarded which acknowledges to issue of mass production and the enormous amount of still wearable textiles going to landfill and incineration.



Goal 14 – Life Below Water 
Following research into how we as a society can utilise and protect water, during the installation and Dutch Design Week, Studio Nienke Hoogvliet presented a collaboration with the Dutch Water Authorities. Through the use of activated carbon, “they designed a new cleaning ritual, so that the wastewater that washes away immediately becomes cleaner.”

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References/ notes

1/ https://www.nienkehoogvliet.nl/portfolio/h-e-r-b-s-installation/ 


2/ Dutch Design Week
https://mailchi.mp/50dd28a5427f/herbs-on-the-dutch-design-week?fbclid=IwAR18QtRdbtJSefSPNBR2A6gH34pP8h0-JDCFi5JBuhZOflBy8VompBr6n5k 


3/ Dutch Design Week:
https://mailchi.mp/50dd28a5427f/herbs-on-the-dutch-design-week?fbclid=IwAR0K3RbUBmGSMTruTeK_1eNPgxMw7Hoqrfe8slGlKL4nc-KeBfcSzNujTYU


4/ Studi Nienkehoogvliet
https://vimeo.com/studionienkehoogvliet

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